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2rem))}.align-full{width:100cqw;margin-block:3rem}.pair{clear:both;width:min(64rem,calc(100cqw - 2rem));margin:2.25rem 0 2.25rem 50%;transform:translate(-50%);display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(auto-fit,minmax(0,1fr));grid-auto-flow:column;gap:1rem;align-items:start}.pair .fig{width:100%;float:none;margin:0;transform:none}@media (max-width: 44rem){.align-center,.align-left,.align-right{width:100%}.wrap.align-left,.wrap.align-right{float:none;margin:2.25rem 0}.pair{grid-auto-flow:row;grid-template-columns:1fr}}.article-head[data-astro-cid-zm77yjld]{max-width:var(--measure);margin:0 auto;padding:4rem var(--clear-space) 2rem}.article-head[data-astro-cid-zm77yjld] h1[data-astro-cid-zm77yjld]{font-size:var(--step-h1);font-weight:var(--weight-light);line-height:1.1;margin:.75rem 0 1rem}.dek[data-astro-cid-zm77yjld]{font-size:1.3rem;opacity:.8;margin:0}.article-foot[data-astro-cid-zm77yjld]{max-width:var(--measure);margin:4rem auto 0;padding:2rem var(--clear-space) 4rem;border-top:1px solid rgba(240,235,224,.15);font-size:.95rem}.article-foot[data-astro-cid-zm77yjld] .updated[data-astro-cid-zm77yjld],.article-foot[data-astro-cid-zm77yjld] .tags[data-astro-cid-zm77yjld]{margin:0 0 .5rem;opacity:.75}.sr-only{position:absolute;width:1px;height:1px;padding:0;margin:-1px;overflow:hidden;clip:rect(0,0,0,0);white-space:nowrap;border:0}.essay-card{position:relative;isolation:isolate;display:grid;align-items:end;min-height:calc(100vh - var(--site-header-h, 7rem));min-height:calc(100svh - var(--site-header-h, 7rem));overflow:hidden;background:var(--pair-a-bg)}.essay-card-photo{position:absolute;inset:0;z-index:-2;width:100%;height:100%;object-fit:cover}.essay-card:after{content:"";position:absolute;inset:0;z-index:-1;background:linear-gradient(to top,color-mix(in srgb,var(--color-charcoal) 92%,transparent),color-mix(in srgb,var(--color-charcoal) 40%,transparent) 55%,transparent)}.essay-card-copy{width:100%;max-width:46rem;margin:0 auto;padding:0 var(--clear-space) clamp(1.5rem,7svh,4rem)}.essay-card h1{font-size:var(--step-h1);font-weight:var(--weight-light);line-height:1.05;margin:.75rem 0 1rem}.essay-card .dek{max-width:36rem;margin:0 0 2rem;font-size:1.3rem;opacity:.85}.essay-card-actions{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:.75rem}.essay-card-actions[hidden],.sound-toggle[hidden]{display:none}.btn-primary,.btn-quiet{min-height:2.75rem;padding:.7rem 1.5rem;font-family:inherit;font-size:var(--step-eyebrow);font-weight:var(--weight-medium);letter-spacing:.04em;text-transform:uppercase;cursor:pointer}.btn-primary{background:var(--color-gold);color:var(--color-charcoal);border:1px solid var(--color-gold)}.btn-quiet{background:transparent;color:var(--pair-a-letters);border:1px solid rgba(240,235,224,.4)}.btn-primary:focus-visible,.btn-quiet:focus-visible,.sound-toggle:focus-visible{outline:2px solid var(--color-gold);outline-offset:3px}.essay-credit{margin:1.25rem 0 0;font-size:.85rem;opacity:.6}.sound-toggle{position:fixed;right:max(1rem,env(safe-area-inset-right));bottom:max(1rem,env(safe-area-inset-bottom));z-index:20;display:grid;place-items:center;width:2.75rem;height:2.75rem;padding:0;color:var(--pair-a-letters);background:color-mix(in srgb,var(--color-charcoal) 78%,transparent);border:1px solid color-mix(in srgb,var(--color-gold) 70%,transparent);cursor:pointer;opacity:0;pointer-events:none;transition:opacity .3s ease}.sound-toggle.is-visible{opacity:1;pointer-events:auto}.sound-toggle .icon-off,.sound-toggle[aria-pressed=false] .icon-on{display:none}.sound-toggle[aria-pressed=false] .icon-off{display:block}.essay .scene{margin:0 0 3.5rem}.essay .scene .photo{margin:0}.essay .scene .photo img{display:block;width:100%;height:auto}.essay .scene .copy{max-width:var(--measure);margin:1.25rem auto 0;padding:0 var(--clear-space);font-size:1.3rem;font-weight:var(--weight-medium);line-height:1.65}.essay .scene .copy p{margin:0 0 1.2rem}.essay .scene-text{padding-top:2rem}.essay.is-staged{height:calc(var(--steps) * var(--step-vh) * 1vh + 100vh);height:calc(var(--steps) * var(--step-vh) * 1svh + 100svh)}.essay.is-staged .stage{position:sticky;top:0;height:100vh;height:100svh;overflow:hidden;background:var(--pair-a-bg)}.essay.is-staged .scene{position:absolute;inset:0;display:none;grid-template-columns:minmax(0,1fr);margin:0;opacity:0;transition:opacity .9s ease}.essay.is-staged .scene.is-near,.essay.is-staged .scene.is-active,.essay.is-staged .scene.is-leaving{display:grid}.essay.is-staged .scene.is-active{opacity:1}.essay.is-staged .scene .copy{position:relative;z-index:1;width:min(40rem,100%);margin:0 auto;padding:0;font-size:clamp(1.25rem,1.05rem + .9vw,1.7rem);line-height:1.5;opacity:0;transform:translateY(.75rem);transition:opacity .9s ease .25s,transform .9s ease .25s}.essay.is-staged .scene.is-active .copy{opacity:1;transform:none}.essay.is-staged .scene-full{align-content:end;padding:0 var(--clear-space) clamp(2.5rem,9svh,5.5rem)}.essay.is-staged .scene-full[data-position=center]{align-content:center;padding-bottom:0}.essay.is-staged .scene-full[data-position=top]{align-content:start;padding:clamp(2.5rem,9svh,5.5rem) var(--clear-space) 0}.essay.is-staged .scene-full .photo{position:absolute;inset:0}.essay.is-staged .scene-full .photo img{width:100%;height:100%;object-fit:cover;object-position:var(--focus)}.essay.is-staged .scene-full:after{content:"";position:absolute;inset:0;pointer-events:none;background:linear-gradient(to top,color-mix(in srgb,var(--color-charcoal) 88%,transparent),transparent 62%)}.essay.is-staged .scene-full[data-position=top]:after{background:linear-gradient(to bottom,color-mix(in srgb,var(--color-charcoal) 88%,transparent),transparent 62%)}.essay.is-staged .scene-full[data-position=center]:after{background:color-mix(in srgb,var(--color-charcoal) 55%,transparent)}.essay.is-staged .scene-split{grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;align-items:center;column-gap:clamp(1.5rem,5vw,5rem);padding-inline:max(var(--clear-space),calc((100% - var(--content-max-width)) / 2 + var(--clear-space)))}.essay.is-staged .scene-split .photo{display:grid;place-items:center;height:100%;min-height:0}.essay.is-staged .scene-split .photo img{width:auto;height:auto;max-width:100%;max-height:86svh;object-fit:contain}.essay.is-staged .scene-split[data-side=right] .photo{order:2}.essay.is-staged .scene-split .copy{width:100%;max-width:34rem;margin:0}@media (max-width: 47.99rem){.essay.is-staged .scene-split{grid-template-columns:minmax(0,1fr);grid-template-rows:minmax(0,1fr) auto;row-gap:1.25rem;padding:1.25rem var(--clear-space) 2rem}.essay.is-staged .scene-split .photo img{max-height:100%}.essay.is-staged .scene-split[data-side=right] .photo{order:0}}.essay.is-staged .scene-text{place-content:center;padding:0 var(--clear-space)}.essay.is-staged .scene-text .copy{font-size:clamp(1.5rem,1.2rem + 1.4vw,2.2rem);font-weight:var(--weight-light);line-height:1.4;text-align:center}.route-map{position:relative;width:100%;aspect-ratio:16 / 9;overflow:hidden}.route-map>svg{position:absolute;inset:0;display:block;width:100%;height:100%}.route-base{-webkit-mask-image:radial-gradient(closest-side ellipse at 50% 50%,#000 58%,transparent 100%);mask-image:radial-gradient(closest-side ellipse at 50% 50%,#000 58%,transparent 100%)}.route-grid,.route-land,.route-border,.route-guide,.route-line{fill:none}.route-border{stroke:color-mix(in srgb,var(--pair-a-letters) 16%,transparent);stroke-width:1.2}.route-grid{stroke:color-mix(in srgb,var(--pair-a-letters) 7%,transparent);stroke-width:1}.route-land{fill:color-mix(in srgb,var(--pair-a-letters) 15%,transparent)}.route-guide{stroke:color-mix(in srgb,var(--color-gold) 28%,transparent);stroke-width:3}.route-line{stroke:var(--color-gold);stroke-width:3;stroke-linecap:round;stroke-linejoin:round;stroke-dasharray:1 1;stroke-dashoffset:0}.route-stop{position:absolute;width:0;height:0}.route-dot{position:absolute;left:-.3rem;top:-.3rem;width:.6rem;height:.6rem;border-radius:50%;background:var(--pair-a-bg);border:2px solid var(--color-gold)}.route-label{position:absolute;top:.7rem;white-space:nowrap;font-size:var(--step-eyebrow);font-weight:var(--weight-medium);letter-spacing:.08em;text-transform:uppercase}.route-stop[data-edge=left] .route-label{left:-.2rem}.route-stop[data-edge=right] .route-label{right:-.2rem}.route-stop[data-edge=mid] .route-label{left:0;transform:translate(-50%)}.route-stop[data-label=above] .route-label{top:auto;bottom:.7rem}.route-stop[data-label=above-far] .route-label{top:auto;bottom:1.75rem}.route-stop[data-label=below-far] .route-label{top:1.75rem}.route-stop[data-label=right] .route-label,.route-stop[data-label=left] .route-label{top:50%;transform:translateY(-50%)}.route-stop[data-label=right] .route-label{left:.9rem;right:auto}.route-stop[data-label=left] .route-label{left:auto;right:.9rem}.route-stop.is-repeat .route-label{display:none}.route-vehicle{position:absolute;display:none;color:var(--color-gold);filter:drop-shadow(0 0 4px color-mix(in srgb,var(--color-charcoal) 80%,transparent))}.route-vehicle svg{display:block}.route-map.is-live .route-vehicle{display:block;transition:opacity .4s ease}.route-map.is-live .route-vehicle.is-parked{opacity:0}.route-map.is-live .route-dot{opacity:0;transform:scale(.2);transition:opacity .3s ease,transform .5s cubic-bezier(.3,1.7,.5,1)}.route-map.is-live .route-label{opacity:0;transition:opacity .5s ease}.route-map.is-live .route-stop.is-on .route-dot{opacity:1;transform:none}.route-map.is-live .route-stop.is-on .route-label{opacity:1}.route-map.is-live .route-stop[data-first].is-on .route-dot{transition-delay:.7s}.route-map.is-live .route-stop[data-first].is-on .route-label{transition-delay:1.1s}.essay-line{display:none}.essay .scene-map .copy{margin-top:1.25rem}.essay.is-staged .essay-line{position:absolute;z-index:3;top:0;left:.25rem;display:block;width:22px;height:100%;pointer-events:none;overflow:visible}.essay-line path{fill:none;stroke:var(--color-gold);stroke-width:1.6;stroke-linecap:round;stroke-dasharray:1 1;stroke-dashoffset:1;filter:drop-shadow(0 0 2px color-mix(in srgb,var(--color-charcoal) 85%,transparent))}.essay.is-staged .scene-map{grid-template-rows:minmax(0,1fr) auto;justify-items:center;align-items:center;padding:0 var(--clear-space) clamp(2.5rem,9svh,5.5rem)}.essay.is-staged .scene-map .route-map{width:min(100%,calc((100svh - 14rem) * 16 / 9));max-width:64rem}.essay.is-staged .scene-map .copy{margin-top:0}@media (max-width: 47.99rem){.essay.is-staged .scene-map{grid-template-rows:auto auto;align-content:center;row-gap:2.5rem;padding-bottom:0}}.essay .montage{display:grid;gap:2.5rem}.essay .m-photo{margin:0}.essay .m-frame img{display:block;width:100%;height:auto}.essay .m-photo figcaption{max-width:var(--measure);margin:.75rem auto 0;padding:0 var(--clear-space);font-size:1.1rem;line-height:1.45}.essay.is-staged .scene-montage{grid-template-rows:minmax(0,1fr) auto;padding:0 0 clamp(2.5rem,9svh,5.5rem)}.essay.is-staged .scene-montage:not(:has(.copy)){grid-template-rows:minmax(0,1fr);padding-bottom:clamp(1rem,4svh,2.5rem)}.essay.is-staged .scene-montage .copy{width:min(40rem,100%);padding-inline:var(--clear-space)}.essay.is-staged .montage{position:relative;display:block;min-height:0}.essay.is-staged .m-photo{position:absolute;display:flex;flex-direction:column;align-items:center;justify-content:center;gap:.6rem;opacity:0;pointer-events:none;transition:opacity .9s ease,transform .9s ease}.essay.is-staged .m-photo.is-shown{opacity:1}.essay.is-staged .m-photo:first-child.is-shown{transition-delay:.35s}.essay.is-staged .m-photo{container-type:size}.essay.is-staged .m-frame{flex:none;aspect-ratio:var(--ratio);width:min(100cqw,calc((100cqh - var(--cap, 0px)) * var(--ratio)))}.essay.is-staged .m-frame img{display:block;width:100%;height:100%;object-fit:contain;filter:drop-shadow(0 8px 22px color-mix(in srgb,#000 55%,transparent))}.essay.is-staged .m-photo figcaption{flex:none;max-width:100%;margin:0;padding:0 .25rem;text-align:center;font-size:clamp(1rem,.9rem + .45vw,1.3rem);line-height:1.35}.essay.is-staged .scene-montage[data-arrange=stack] .m-photo{inset:3% 5% 1%}.essay.is-staged .scene-montage[data-arrange=scatter] .m-photo{left:var(--l);top:var(--t);width:var(--w);height:var(--h);transform:translateY(1rem) scale(.96) rotate(var(--tilt))}.essay.is-staged .scene-montage[data-arrange=scatter] .m-photo.is-shown{transform:rotate(var(--tilt))}.essay.is-staged .scene-montage[data-arrange=scatter] .m-photo.is-shown:not(.is-latest){opacity:.72}@media (max-width: 47.99rem){.essay.is-staged .scene-montage[data-arrange=scatter] .m-photo{left:var(--pl);top:var(--pt);width:var(--pw);height:var(--ph)}.essay.is-staged .scene-montage[data-arrange=scatter] .m-photo figcaption{font-size:.9rem}}.timeline{--dot: .8rem;--tl-gap: 1.1rem;--tl-when: 4.6rem;--tl-col-gap: .8rem;list-style:none;display:grid;row-gap:var(--tl-gap);width:min(100%,34rem);margin:0 auto;padding:0}.tl-item{--s: 1;position:relative;display:grid;grid-template-columns:var(--tl-when) var(--dot) minmax(0,1fr);column-gap:var(--tl-col-gap);align-items:start}.tl-when{grid-column:1;grid-row:1 / span 2;text-align:right;font-size:1.05rem;letter-spacing:.04em;line-height:1.2;color:var(--color-gold)}.tl-dot{grid-column:2;grid-row:1 / span 2;position:relative;z-index:1;width:var(--dot);height:var(--dot);margin-top:.2rem;border-radius:50%;background:var(--color-gold)}.tl-title{grid-column:3;grid-row:1;font-size:1.2rem;line-height:1.2}.tl-note{grid-column:3;grid-row:2;margin-top:.15rem;font-size:.95rem;line-height:1.3;opacity:.75}.tl-item:not(:last-child):before,.tl-item:not(:last-child):after{content:"";position:absolute;left:calc(var(--tl-when) + var(--tl-col-gap) + var(--dot) / 2 - 1px);top:calc(.2rem + var(--dot) / 2);width:2px;height:calc(100% + var(--tl-gap))}.tl-item:not(:last-child):before{background:color-mix(in srgb,var(--color-parchment) 18%,transparent)}.tl-item:not(:last-child):after{background:var(--color-gold);transform-origin:top;transform:scaleY(var(--s))}@media (min-width: 48rem){.timeline{--when-h: 2.2rem;--dot: .9rem;--tl-row: .5rem;grid-template-columns:repeat(var(--n),minmax(0,1fr));column-gap:0;row-gap:0;width:min(100%,72rem)}.tl-item{grid-template-columns:minmax(0,1fr);grid-template-rows:var(--when-h) var(--dot) auto auto;row-gap:var(--tl-row);justify-items:center;padding-inline:.5rem;text-align:center}.tl-when{grid-column:1;grid-row:1;align-self:end;text-align:center;font-size:1.25rem;white-space:nowrap}.tl-dot{grid-column:1;grid-row:2;margin:0}.tl-title{grid-column:1;grid-row:3;font-size:1.35rem}.tl-note{grid-column:1;grid-row:4;font-size:1rem}.tl-item:not(:last-child):before,.tl-item:not(:last-child):after{left:50%;top:calc(var(--when-h) + var(--tl-row) + var(--dot) / 2 - 1px);width:100%;height:2px}.tl-item:not(:last-child):after{transform-origin:left;transform:scaleX(var(--s))}}.essay.is-staged .tl-item{--s: 0}.essay.is-staged .tl-when,.essay.is-staged .tl-dot,.essay.is-staged .tl-title,.essay.is-staged .tl-note{opacity:0;transform:translateY(.4rem);transition:opacity .6s ease,transform .6s ease}.essay.is-staged .tl-note{transition-delay:.12s}.essay.is-staged .tl-item.is-on .tl-when,.essay.is-staged .tl-item.is-on .tl-dot,.essay.is-staged .tl-item.is-on .tl-title{opacity:1;transform:none}.essay.is-staged .tl-item.is-on .tl-note{opacity:.75;transform:none}.essay.is-staged .scene-timeline{align-content:center;justify-items:center;row-gap:clamp(1.5rem,5svh,3rem);padding:0 var(--clear-space) clamp(1.5rem,6svh,4rem)}.essay.is-staged .scene-timeline .copy{margin-top:0}.essay.is-staged .scene-timeline .timeline{width:min(100%,72rem)}@media (max-width: 47.99rem){.essay.is-staged .scene-timeline .timeline{width:min(100%,34rem)}}.co-frame{position:relative;width:100%;aspect-ratio:var(--ratio)}.co-ring{position:absolute;inset:0;width:100%;height:100%;pointer-events:none;overflow:visible}.co-ring path{fill:none;stroke:var(--color-gold);stroke-linecap:round;stroke-linejoin:round;stroke-dasharray:1 1;stroke-dashoffset:0;filter:drop-shadow(0 0 3px color-mix(in srgb,#000 70%,transparent))}.essay.is-staged .scene-callout .photo{overflow:hidden;container-type:size}.essay.is-staged .scene-callout .co-frame{position:absolute;left:50%;top:50%;width:max(100cqw,calc(100cqh * var(--ratio)));transform:translate(-50%,-50%);will-change:transform}.essay.is-staged .scene-callout .co-frame img{width:100%;height:100%;object-fit:cover}.essay.is-staged .scene-callout .co-ring path{stroke-dashoffset:1}@media (prefers-reduced-motion: reduce){.essay.is-staged .tl-when,.essay.is-staged .tl-dot,.essay.is-staged .tl-title,.essay.is-staged .tl-note{transition:none;transform:none}}.essay-foot{max-width:var(--measure);margin:0 auto;padding:3rem var(--clear-space) 4rem;font-size:.95rem}.essay-meta{margin:0 0 .5rem;opacity:.75}.essay-prose{max-width:var(--measure);margin:0 auto;padding:4rem var(--clear-space);display:flow-root;font-size:1.3rem;font-weight:var(--weight-medium);line-height:1.65}.essay-prose p{margin:0 0 1.4rem}.essay-prose h2{font-size:1.7rem;font-weight:var(--weight-medium);margin:3rem 0 1rem}.essay-prose h2:first-child{margin-top:0}.essay-prose h3{font-size:1.35rem;margin:2.2rem 0 .8rem}.essay-prose a{color:var(--color-gold);text-underline-offset:.2em}.essay-prose blockquote{margin:2rem 0;padding-left:1.25rem;border-left:2px solid var(--color-gold);opacity:.9}.essay-prose ul,.essay-prose ol{padding-left:1.4rem;margin:0 0 1.4rem}